Itineraries

Itineraries

Poets and millionaires have long journeyed here to see and sense its legendary sights: Sorrento -- Italy at its Belle Epoque best; perfect Positano -- a claim that is more than alliteration; Amalfi -- a shimmering medieval city; and romantic mountain-high Ravello. Connecting these towns is the Amalfi Drive, a cliff-hugging stretch of road that tests one's faith in civil engineering. This roller-coastal route offers views that are drop-dead breathtaking (literally, it sometimes seems).

The coastal sections -- steep, winding, and ultrascenic -- can only be traversed by boat or by two-lane roads. When driving round-trip, many choose to go only in one direction on the coastal roads, going the other way via the highway or by train from Salerno, or by boat from Amalfi or Positano. If a once-over of the region's most fascinating sights is enough, three days will allow you to see Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello -- the absolute musts. A practical minimum for an overview of the splendors to be found on the Sorrento Peninsula, and in Positano, Paestum, and smaller villages along the coast, is five days. To take in the entire span from Sorrento to Paestum, you can put together a glorious 10-day trip.

If You Have 3 Days

If staying in one place is a priority, and you will not be going exploring, start by picking a favorite base. If you plan to comb the coasts, it's best to arrange for at least two overnight destinations. Sorrento could be one hub, especially if you're interested in covering the tip of the peninsula. If you stay in Sorrento, you can easily get to the Amalfi Coast by a short hop on the bus or boat; boat, ferry, and hydrofoil services also connect you with Naples and environs, plus the islands of Capri or Ischia.

And the train from Sorrento will deposit you right in front of Pompeii. You'll need a day to enjoy the Sorrento area, plus another leisurely day to explore the Sorrento Peninsula, enjoying the best beaches in the area or taking a rural hike. For the third day, whizzing past the Sorrento Peninsula, it's a rise-early, full-day excursion along the Amalfi Drive with a cruise through Positano, a stop at the Emerald Grotto in Conca dei Marini, and brief stops in Amalfi, at least for the Duomo, and in Ravello for the villas and a panoramic view; if you want to linger, you can return from Salerno to Sorrento at night via the highway and Sorrento Coast.

If you prefer to spend more time along the coast, or if you want to visit Paestum, spend one of your nights in Amalfi; in so doing, you'll also be able to enjoy nearby adorable Atrani. If you don't mind staying overnight in three different places, a day each in Sorrento and Amalfi and a third day in Ravello or Positano would maximize this brief regional experience. If you're traveling by water, keep in mind that Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno have the most frequent connections. And although these itineraries start in Sorrento, you could travel east to west on the coastal roads just as easily -- but remember, if you want to stay late before returning to Sorrento, you don't want to take rural, scenic roads at night.

If You Have 5 Days

With the three-day itinerary as a base, add the extra two days wherever you feel you want to spend more time relaxing or sightseeing. You might opt to stay two days each in Sorrento or Amalfi, and spend the fifth either in Positano, taking in its shops and resort atmosphere, or calmer Ravello, with its gardens, villas, and panoramic views. After reading this chapter through, you'll have a better idea.

If You Have 10 Days

With a 10-day tour, you'll have the luxury of staying on at your favorite places, and still being able to see just about everything of note in the region. After enjoying Sorrento and environs, work your way slowly south across the Sorrento Peninsula, then along the Amalfi Coast, and include a separate day trip to Paestum for a rousing finale. You can take the highway or train back from Salerno to Naples, Rome, or wherever, on the 10th day.

A possible itinerary would be three days in Sorrento and environs; one day at a small rural town by a beach, such as Marina della Lobra below Massa Lubrense or Marina del Cantone or, by the sea, sublimely exquisite Conca dei Marini; one day in Positano; two in Amalfi; and two in Ravello. If visiting from May to October, some travelers will want to fit in a long day exploring coves, islets, and grottoes -- either by land or through a blissful sea cruise.