Capri Swimming & Stabilimenti

Capri Swimming & Stabilimenti

Sorry -- Capri is not noted for fine beaches. "Strand-ed" habitués cram onto Marina Piccola, generally considered to have the best beach on the island. It's certainly the most historic: Homer believed this to be the legendary spot where the Sirens nearly snared Odysseus. Social go-getters seem to prefer the less picturesque Bagni di Tiberio beach near Marina Grande. At Marina Piccola, expect to pay about EUR 14 per person for the use of showers, lockers, and a sun chair/sun bed. It's definitely worth investing in snorkeling gear, as the sea is rich in marine life, and visibility is often excellent.

Rather than visiting public beaches, many sunworshippers opt to enjoy the fabled stabilimenti balenari (private bathing lidos) scattered around the island, some of which offer real relaxation and unbelievable views. One of the most famous is La Fontelina (Località Faraglioni, Capri Town. 081/8370845. EUR 14 admission includes locker and sun chair; EUR 7 for beach umbrella), open from April to October. At the foot of the Faraglioni rocks, the lido's magical setting will enchant you. There's no beach here, so the lido isn't suitable for children. You can get to La Fontelina by using a rocky path that begins at the end of Via Tragara; others prefer to take a ferry (EUR 3) from the more accessible Marina Piccola during the afternoon. The excellent but pricey restaurant is only open for lunch. The Lido del Faro (Località Punta Carena, Anacapri. 081/8371798. www.lidofaro.com. EUR 10 admission includes locker and sun chair; EUR 16 sun bed, EUR 6 beach umbrella), on the Anacapri side of the island, is set amid rocks with a natural basin as a seawater swimming pool and is open from April to October during daylight hours. The sun usually beats down on this westerly headland all day while on summer nights the restaurant provides a unique setting for enjoying the freshest fish. The lido is easily accessible by bus from Anacapri Town. Note that many other stabilimenti are set on the enchanting Marina Piccola, particularly the famous Canzone del Mare.