If you wince at tour-bus crowds, consider heading to the Irish-speaking village of Ballyvourney, where this historic coaching inn beside the rapid-flowing River Sullane has old castle ruins, a stable yard and gardens on its grounds. The bar, established in 1755, is popular with Irish-speaking locals and has traditional Irish music from Thursday to Sunday nights. Rooms are well insulated from bar and traffic noise and have mahogany four-poster beds (which take up almost
the whole floor). The restaurant and bar serve generous portions of local meat and seafood—it's quieter in the restaurant, with a fancier menu, but you may need to reserve. Typical daily specials include panfried John Dory fillet on sautéed leek, or slow-braised local lamb shank with rosemary and redcurrant jus.