A marble-topped bar and an oyster tank in the reception area set the keynote for this much-loved Killarney restaurant, the venue for many a local family's special celebration. There's a touch of the old-fashioned gentleman's club about its solid wooden carver chairs, at tables formally set with white linen. Owner-chef Carol Hartnett (whose brother runs Nick's in Killorglin) makes use of good local ingredients, including superior Irish cream and butter, in a classically inspired menu. Try panfried John Dory with lemon butter, sirloin steak on grilled fennel with star anise and basil sauce, or rack of lamb with a hoisin glaze and roasted red onion. The wine list has more than 300 selections, and a pianist entertains in summer. Inexpensive bar food can also be sampled in the bar area.
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