This tiny city-center restaurant, on the ground floor of a 250-year-old Georgian house, is always buzzing with a faithful local clientele—legal eagles from the nearby courthouse at lunch, theater- and moviegoers at dinner. The owners are also in the meat business; their baked ham is outstanding, and the char-grilled fillet steak with chunky chips has achieved legendary status: some regulars can't bring themselves to order anything else. But there are other good options: fish from the nearby market is given robust, unfussy treatment, and vegetarian offerings include a twice-baked goat cheese soufflé with apple and walnut salad. The ginger-and-toffee sticky pudding is a dessert specialty. Simple decor, with bright red café-style chairs and tan banquettes, gets a dose of character from striking modern paintings. If you come before 7:30 you can order from the bargain early-bird menu.
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