With a Breton sommelier, Soizic, working the front of the house, and her U.K.-and-Dublin-trained Irish husband, Pat Kiely, in the kitchen, you can expect a genuinely interesting eating experience. The restaurant is small, but it has high ceilings, and natural light pours in from an overhead skylight, brightening the quarry-tile floor and red-velvet chairs. Crisp white linen and fresh flowers are typical of Soizic's attention to detail. Pat's training with Marco Pierre White, John Burton Race, and Patrick Guilbaud shows in his mastery of a robust modern French repertoire. Roasted fillet of cod is served with braised lentils and a thyme-and-balsamic dressing, while roast guinea fowl comes with buttered cabbage and Madeira sauce. Desserts include vanilla crème brûlée with passion fruit jelly and chocolate madeleine. Good-value set menus are also available.
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