Fishy Fishy Café

Fishy Fishy Café Review

Originally a café in a fish shop, Fishy Fishy has moved up in the world, and now occupies sumptuous indoor-outdoor premises in the town park. The eatery's nautical style, with classy wooden furniture and massive parasols, is modern and clean-lined. Crowds flock to stand in line for a table at peak times (1-2:30) because chef Martin Shanahan, who learned his craft in San Francisco, brings California pizzazz to his dishes. Look for wok-fried clams with spring onions, coriander, and ginger; "fishy fish" pie (white fish, salmon, and leeks in a hot cream sauce and mash au gratin); and seafood salad with a sweet chili dressing. It's all served by stylish young staff who give the impression they are thrilled to be part of the show. Speaking of which, Martin's TV series, "Martin's Mad About Fish," was a smash hit, especially with children, who can be seen leading their parents to the table here for a huge plate of battered fish and shoestring chips, Shanahan-style. The chef and his wife Marie do not take reservations for lunch (but they do for dinner, and booking is advisable) with limited dinner service: they stay open until 9 pm Tuesday to Saturday from March to October, to 4:30 Sunday and Monday. The rest of the year it's lunch only Sunday to Wednesday, and dinner to 9 pm Thursday to Saturday.