Originally a café in a fish shop, Fishy Fishy has moved up in the world, and now occupies sumptuous indoor-outdoor premises in the town park. Previously an art gallery, the renovated quarters were remade by yacht designers, and the eatery's nautical style, with classy wooden furniture and massive parasols, is modern and clean-lined. Chef Martin Shanahan and his wife, Marie, continue to operate with a policy of no reservations, no credit cards, and limited dinner service (they stay open until 8, Tuesday through Friday, from April to October). Still, the crowds flock to stand in line for a table at peak times (1-2:30). Martin, who learned his craft in San Francisco, brings California pizzazz to his dishes. Look for wok-fried clams with sping onions, coriander, and ginger; fishy fish pie (white fish, salmon, and shellfish in a hot cream sauce and mash, au gratin); and seafood salad with a sweet chili dressing. It's all served by stylish young staff who give the impression they are thrilled to be part of the show. Some 18 wines are available by the glass. The dining hours are complicated: November through March, they are open daily from noon until 4:30 (in other words, no dinner), and from April to October the dining hours extend to 8 pm.
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