Step behind the Victorian arched facade here and you'll discover a buzzing contemporary restaurant, masterminded by the two Treyvaud brothers, who are also the chefs. The interior is simple—pine floorboards, wood-beam ceiling, lines of red-back chairs—so the food takes center stage. To start try the local smoked salmon with warm potato cake and creme fraiche, or deep fried calamari with a saffron and citrus rouille. Follow with bacon and cabbage Treyvaud-style (smoked loin with buttered cabbage and wholegrain mustard sauce), homemade smoked haddock fish cakes with garlic aioli, or the renowned, flavorful beef-and-Guinness pie. In winter this place is famous for its wide selection of game, including rabbit, wild boar, pheasant, and quail.