Originally a café in a fish shop, this place has moved up in the world, with sumptuous indoor-outdoor premises in the town park. Crowds flock to stand in line for lunch (reservations are only available for dinner) because TV chef Martin Shanahan, who trained in San Francisco, brings California pizzazz to his dishes. Look for surf 'n' turf of scallops and black pudding on parsnip puree; "fishy fishy" pie (white fish, salmon, and leeks in a hot cream sauce and mash au gratin); and the signature warm seafood salad with a sweet chili dressing. Stylish young staffers seem thrilled to be part of the show. Lunch is the big event, although service does continue until 9 pm (except some days in winter).