Fodor's Expert Review Campagne

When Garrett Byrne, the former head chef of Dublin's celebrated Chapter One, returns home and opens a restaurant, people take notice, and the awards---and diners from all of Ireland---start flooding in. The menu is a work of art, with common French themes toyed with and expanded. The ox tongue and cheek, in sauce gribiche with pickled salsify and horseradish cream, is just about the perfect starter. For a main, try the saddle of wild venison with bacon and chestnut dumpling, caramelized parsnip, and pepper jus. Byrne chose an industrial site beside the disused railway yard and transformed it into a stylish, uncluttered space with a beautiful green canopy for a sense of the French bistro. The oak flooring and curved banquettes contrast with the abstract splashes of bright colors on the walls. The wine list is long and luxurious.