When the former head chef of Dublin's celebrated Chapter One returns home and opens a restaurant, people take notice, and the awards start flooding in. Garrett Byrne chose an industrial site beside the disused railway yard and transformed it into a stylish, uncluttered space with a beautiful green canopy that adds a touch of the French bistro. The oak flooring and curved banquettes contrast with the abstract splashes of bright colors on the walls. The menu is the real work of art, with common French themes toyed with and expanded. The ox tongue and cheek, in sauce gribiche with pickled salsify and horseradish cream is just about the perfect starter. For a main, try the poached turbot with fennel puree and seaweed butter. The wine list is long and luxurious.
5 The Arches, Gashouse La., Kilkenny City, Co. Kilkenny, Ireland