The Midlands Restaurants

The Midlands town of Birr may be known as the "belly button of Ireland" because of its central location, not because this region is regarded as one of the cuisine centers of Ireland. No matter that Ireland's best restaurant (according to some)—Neven Maguire's MacNean's, near Cavan town—is in the Midlands, nor the fact that the region is also home to Wineport Lodge, Ireland's first "wine hotel," you'll find that most restaurants here are simple eateries, ranging in price from inexpensive to moderate.

Nevertheless, there are those restaurants that will entice you right in off the street, especially those offering beef—Mullingar, in the center of the Midlands, is the beef capital of Ireland—and fish specialties, as the many lakes and rivers of the region provide an abundance of fresh salmon and trout (in fact, since no place is more than an hour and a half from the sea, expect to find lots of fresh ocean fish).

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  • 1. The Purple Onion

    $$

    Originally a standard public house with low ceilings, this Shannon-side resting place on the main street of a tiny village to the west of Longford Town has been transformed into a gourmet's delight—a special gastropub, bustling with locals and tourists alike. Specialties include Thornhill duck, baked sea bream, and renowned John Stone steaks from an artisanal butcher specializing in Irish grass-fed beef. Potatoes and vegetables are abundant and even served al dente. The good-value early-bird menu stretches from Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 9:15 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 7 pm, and Sunday 4 to 6 pm (when the restaurant is also open for lunch). It's worth leaving space for the Toblerone cheesecake, which has become the sweet talk of Longford and has been a fixture on the dessert menu since 2000. An upstairs gallery has work by some of the finest and best-known Irish artists, including Paul Henry, Graham Knuttel, and Kenneth Webb, the latter noted for his expressionistic, thickly painted landscapes of Connemara.

    Main St., Tarmonbarry, Co. Longford, Ireland
    043-335–9919

    Known For

    • Duck and artisanal-butcher steaks
    • Delicious Toblerone cheesecake
    • Good-value early-bird menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No lunch Tues.–Thurs., Reservations essential
  • 2. The Thatch Bar

    $$

    Imaginative food and a warm welcome await at this 300-year-old bar and restaurant, its thatched roof (completely redone in 2017), exposed wooden beams, and brick walls adding to the intimate country atmosphere. Main courses may include half honey roast duck, braised lamb shank, grilled aubergine with goat cheese, or chicken with black pudding. Leave room for the apple and mixed berry crumble. The pub is run by Des Connole, who brings a long pedigree: he is the sixth generation of his family to own it.

    Military Rd., Crinkill, Co. Offaly, Ireland
    057-912–0682

    Known For

    • Steaks
    • Huge portions
    • Flawless service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed.--Fri.
  • 3. Thyme

    $$

    Clusters of smoked glass pendant lights, aromatic candlelit tables, green banquette furnishings, and smooth music add luster to this always-busy riverside restaurant hidden down a side street beside the bridge. Tuck into some truly creative Athlonian food which might include glazed ham hock, Castlemine free-range pork loin with sausage dumpling, lamb with sheep's cheese polenta, Wagyu beef, or featherblade of beef (sourced from the shoulder blade of the cow). Craft beer, such as American Amber Ale or Seeking Sunshine IPA, comes from the Dead Centre Brewing company next door. The value menu is €38 and €58 for five courses.

    Custume Pl., Athlone, Co. Westmeath, Ireland
    090-647--8850

    Known For

    • Wagyu beef
    • Sticky toffee pudding
    • Craft beers
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