Giant's Causeway

Giant's Causeway Review

"When the world was moulded and fashioned out of formless chaos, this must have been a bit over—a remnant of chaos," said the great Thackeray about Northern Ireland's premier tourist draw, the Giant's Causeway. Imagine a mass of 37,000 mostly hexagonal pillars of volcanic basalt, clustered like a giant honeycomb and extending hundreds of yards into the sea. Legend has it this "causeway" was created 60 million years ago, when boiling lava, erupting from an underground fissure that stretched from Northern Ireland to the Scottish coast, crystallized as it burst into the sea, and formed according to the same natural principle that structures a honeycomb. As all Ulster folk know, though, the truth is that the columns were created as stepping-stones by the giant Finn McCool in a bid to reach a giantess he'd fallen in love with on the Scottish island of Staffa (where the causeway resurfaces). Unfortunately, the giantess's boyfriend found out, and in the ensuing battle, Finn pulled out a huge chunk of earth and flung it toward Scotland. The resulting hole became Lough Neagh, and the sod landed to create the Isle of Man.

To reach the causeway, you can either walk 1½ km (1 mi) down a long, scenic hill or take the Causeway Coaster minibus. A popular option with many visitors is to take the 20-minute walk downhill to the main causeway rock formation and catch the shuttle bus back uphill. The Causeway is Northern Ireland's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the peak summer months it can be very busy—get there early before the crowds or leave your visit until late afternoon, when it's generally quieter.

As for touring the site, note that not all stone pipes are created equal. Be sure to take a seat in the "Wishing Chair" and also look out for the "Giant's Boot," "Camel," "Harp," and the "Giant's Organ" pipes. Heading west of the causeway, note that Port-na-Spania is the spot where the 16th-century Spanish Armada galleon Girona went down on the rocks. The ship was carrying an astonishing cargo of gold and jewelry, some of which was recovered in 1967. Beyond this, Chimney Point is the name given to one of the causeway structures on which the Spanish fired, thinking that it was Dunluce Castle, which is 8 km (5 mi) west. The nearby Causeway Hotel is a good place to stop off for lunch after any hunger-inducing walk.

After a two-year upheaval of building work the sparkling new glass-fronted Giant's Causeway Visitor Experience opens in summer 2012. Built at a cost of ?18.5 million, the center is built of locally quarried basalt and will have a glass front that will ensure that people with disabilities who may not be able to walk on the site will be able to enjoy the spectacular coastal views. The building will be sunken into the ground, blending so effectively into the landscape that the indigenous grasses on the roof will restore the natural ridgeline and provide a habitat for wildlife. The Irish architectural firm, Heneghan Peng (originally founded in New York in 1999), designed the center. Special environmental features include water-permeable paving, natural lighting, and rainwater harvesting. The center will also reveal the conservation challenges caused by erosion and the story of the wealth of wildlife both on the Causeway and in the surrounding coastal environment. Find out about the pair of oystercatchers who, for the past few years, have nested on the stones, or the rare and tiny whorl snails found in one of the bays. At the heart of the exhibits, new panels and audio guides will be in place to create an oral archive project. Outside, trail paths are also being been upgraded and extended.

Please note: during the first half of 2012 there will be significant building activity on the site as the work is completed. This will have a huge impact on visitors and traffic. The Causeway is notclosed for business but in the words of the marketing department, it "will be business not quite as usual." In order to avoid queues or disappointment, please contact the center in advance to arrange a tour. There will be limited parking until the new center opens and a park and ride service will operate between Bushmills and the Causeway.

Word of warning: dress appropriately by taking a warm jacket and wear sensible walking shoes, as the causeway can be slippery on wet days. Small children will need to be properly supervised.