Itinerary: The Best of Ireland in a Week
The Best of Ireland in a Week
Ireland might be a small island, but it's packed with things to do and see, so a bit of planning goes a long way. If this is your first trip to the Emerald Isle, then Dublin, Galway, and Kerry have to be top of the list. But what else? You can use Dublin as a base for all of the east coast and the Midlands. And from Galway you can take in all the wilds of the West and even some of the Atlantic islands. This weeklong itinerary should help make sure you don't miss out on any of the must-sees. If it's not your first trip, you might find some more unusual options in the extension itineraries that follow.
Dublin, Galway City, and Killarney (County Kerry) are three of the most vibrant, fun places for any visitor, but they also make great base camps for exploring the wild, ancient, and stunning parts of this rugged and beautiful island. From these hubs you can opt for day trips into the countryside or choose to overnight in a more rural country house or B&B. Either way, the days are very long in summer, and driving times should be comfortable.
Day 1: Dublin
Fly into Dublin and use one of its elegant Georgian hotels as your luxurious base, with Number 31 a great option. Start the day with a trip to Trinity College, Beckett's old stomping ground, and its legendary Book of Kells. Take in the elegant architecture of Georgian Dublin with a visit to beautiful Merrion Square, with the National Museum a definite highlight. After lunch at Fallon & Byrne, pay your respects to Dublin's favorite tipple by taking a tour of the impressive Guinness Storehouse. As evening falls head to cobblestoned Temple Bar, Dublin's party zone, and join locals in this city-of-1,000-pubs for a foamy pint with traditional dinner at Gallagher's Boxty House. For your first night in the city catch a show at W. B. Yeats's old haunt, the Abbey Theatre, or listen to a traditional music session at the wild and wonderful Cobblestone pub.
Day 2: Excursions from Dublin
First drive to the Boyne Valley, a short trip north of the capital. Spend the morning walking among the Iron Age ruins of the rolling Hill of Tara. After a picnic lunch on top of the hill, drive through ancient Kells—one of the centers of early Christianity in Ireland—and then to Newgrange, famous for its ancient passage graves. One thousand years older than Stonehenge, the great white-quartz structure merits an hour or two at least. Next take the M50 ring road south around Dublin for a spectacular drive through the County Wicklow mountains. You might want to stop in one of the small, quiet towns along the Wicklow Way hiking trail and go for a short hike. Drive on to stately Powerscourt House, whose gardens epitomize the glory and grandeur of the Anglo-Irish aristocracy. From the profane to the sacred, head next to the "monastic city" of Glendalough and the medieval monastery of the hermit St. Kevin. Repair to Ireland's highest village, Roundwood, for dinner at the town's 17th-century inn. Head back to Dublin for the night.
Days 3 and 4: West Cork and Kerry
An early-morning departure from Dublin and a 3½-hour drive southwest takes you to Killarney, at the heart of glorious Kerry and West Cork. The Cahernane House Hotel is the ideal refuge from the touristy buzz. Although it has been almost transformed into a Celtic theme park by a flood of visitors, Killarney is a good base for exploring your pick of two great Atlantic-pounded peninsulas: the strikingly scenic Ring of Kerry and the beloved Dingle Peninsula. Both offer stunning ocean views, hilly landscapes (like the Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountains), and welcoming towns with great bed-and-breakfasts. Both drives can be done in a day, or you might choose to focus on one and stop off in the villages along the way or go for a hike. To avoid the crowds in Killarney you could head to serene Kenmare for a spot of dinner and some toe-tapping music and dancing, before an overnight in the magnificent Park Hotel. The next morning, a beautiful hour-long drive through the mountains and along the coast takes you to the small towns of West Cork and the kind of landscape that inspired Ireland's nickname, the Emerald Isle. Skibbereen, Clonakilty, and Glengarriff are all magical places to spend a few hours and maybe do a little crafts shopping. Finish your drive at picture-perfect Bantry House and Gardens where you can splurge on authentic 18th-century room with stunning views of the bay. Alternatively, head back to Killarney for the night.
Days 5–7: The West
An almost three-hour drive north from Killarney will take you straight to Galway City, the urban center of the wild and ancient West. But don't make the mistake of rushing through the wonders of County Clare. Take a detour straight for the jaw-dropping 710-foot-high Cliffs of Moher, perhaps the single most impressive sight in Ireland. After lunch in the waterside village of Ballyvaughan spend a couple of hours exploring the lunar landscape of the harsh, limestone Burren. In spring it becomes a mighty rock garden of exotic colors. If you still have time you could take in the 2-million-year-old Ailwee Cave and the picture-perfect village of Kinvara before you hit Galway. An evening out in that city is a must, as it's always brim full of music, theater, and truly great seafood. Next morning head northwest to the tiny village of Clifden, with some of the country's best Atlantic views. From here, head east through one of the most beautiful stretches of road in Connemara—through Kylemore Valley, home of Kylemore Abbey, a huge Gothic Revival castle. After seeing the castle and its grounds, head north through tiny Leenane (the setting of the hit Broadway play, The Beauty Queen of Leenane) and on to the most attractive town in County Mayo, Westport. It's the perfect spot to spend the night: the 18th-century planned town is on an inlet of Clew Bay, and some of the west coast's finest beaches are nearby. The cozy and spectacularly located Knockranny House Hotel & Spa is a great hotel option. Day 7 is one of real adventures as you drive an hour south to Rossaveal and take a small boat to the unique and beautiful Aran Islands. The 20-minute boat ride carries you to a quintessential Irish experience. If possible, head for Inis Meáin, the middle island, which still looks and feels much as it did a hundred years ago. It's perfect for walking (there's no traffic) and you'll most likely have the ancient tombs and Christian ruins all to yourself. Enjoy a bit of sweater shopping at Inis Meáin Knitting before you head back to the boat. Once back on the mainland it's time for the drive back to Dublin. The Georgian luxury and comfort of the Merrion Hotel should make your last night in Ireland memorable.
Ireland In Depth
If you have more than a week, these easy add-ons will help you prioritize your time.
County Cork Extension, 2 Days
Follow Day 1 of the "Best of Ireland" Itinerary. Days 2 and 3. On your way from Dublin to West Cork, detour for Cork City, a great walking city of bridges and winding hilly streets. A visit to the colorful English Market can be combined with a hearty Irish lunch. A few miles outside Cork sits the 15th-century Blarney Castle, where you can kiss the famous stone. After your visit, drive to the foodie paradise that is Kinsale. Try to take in a serene harbor cruise to help build an appetite. Spend the night at the Georgian Friar's Lodge. In the morning on your way out of town, stop off at the unique Charles Fort, one of Europe’s best-preserved star forts situated atop a sheer cliff face. Titanic history buffs will want to stop off at The Queenstown Story of Cobh Heritage Centre, which tells the story of the great transatlantic liners. The nearby Titanic Experience allows visitors to literally follow in the footsteps of embarking passengers. From Cobh it's only 1½ hours to Killarney where you can pick up Days 2 and 3 of the "Best Of Ireland" Itinerary.
Northwest Extension, 2 days
Follow Days 1–7 of the "Best of Ireland" Itinerary, including the 2-day County Cork Extension. Days 10 and 11. Instead of heading back to Dublin after visiting the Aran Islands (Day 7 of the "Best Of Ireland" Itinerary), drive north through the heart of Yeats Country in Sligo. Just north of cozy Sligo Town is the stark outline of a great hill, Ben Bulben, in whose shadow poet W. B. Yeats wanted to be buried. South of town, follow the signposted Yeats Trail around woody, gorgeously scenic Lough Gill. Continuing north, you pass W. B.'s simple grave in unassuming Drumcliff, a 3000 BC tomb in Creevykeel, and small but vibrant Donegal Town. Eat some local seafood then spend the night at the Central Hotel, and the next morning head north along the tight, meandering roads of the stunning Donegal coastline. Two wild, breathtaking natural wonders are must-sees on this stretch of coastline. First, the tiny hamlet of Glencolumbkille clings dramatically to the rock-bound harbor of Glen Bay. The cliffs surrounding the tiny village rise up to 700 feet and are awash with prehistoric cairns. Keep driving north through the Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) region and head inland for the mountains, lakes, and moorlands of glorious Glenveagh National Park. A beautiful drive through the mountains and past serene Gartan Lough will take you to Derry and a night at the Victorian Merchant's House. This is ideal for the start of the Northern Ireland Extension below.
Northern Ireland Extension
Days 12 and 13. Begin exploring the province in historic, divided Derry City (called Londonderry by unionists), Northern Ireland's second city. A few hours are sufficient to take in the views from the old city walls and the fascinating murals of the Catholic Bogside district. Continue on to two of the region's main attractions, the 13th-century Norman fortress of Dunluce Castle and the Giant's Causeway, shaped from volcanic rock some 60 million years ago. Heading south, sticking to coastal roads for the best scenery, you'll soon pass through the Glens of Antrim, whose green hills roll down into the sea. Tucked in the glens are a number of small, unpretentious towns with great hotels. Spend the night in the traditional inn that is the Londonderry Arms Hotel in serene Carnlough. Early in the morning, head straight to Northern Ireland's capital, Belfast. The old port city, gray and often wet, is a fascinating place, recovering from years of strife. A Black Taxi Tour is a brilliant way to get to the heart of this old city. Follow this with a visit to the hugely impressive Titanic Belfast before you start heading back to Dublin. If you're ahead of schedule, take the longer route that passes through the glorious Mountains of Mourne and around icy-blue Carlingford Lough. Arrive back in Dublin for a final night at the luxurious Merrion Hotel before flying home in the morning.
