Judges from the nearby Four Courts rest their wigs on empty seats while the fashion crowd chats over multicolor drinks at this chic restaurant in the even chicer Morrison Hotel. A recent restyling has slightly softened the severity of the soaring ceiling and minimalism of the dramatic two-story dining room, devised by fashion designer John Rocha. It looks its best at night: moody and mysterious. European fusion is the tag new chef Richie Wilson gives his menu. Seafood is the focus of his star dishes; the fillet of turbot with Iberian ham, truffle sauce, and a lentil stew is a rich and warm favorite. For a starter try the John Dory with seared foie gras and purple broccoli. As a fitting finale, desserts are miniature works of art on enormous china platters.
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