The Winding Stair

The Winding Stair Review

A dark cloud hung over Dublin when one of its favorite secondhand bookshop-cafés, the Winding Stair, was set to close. But the silver lining appeared in the form of this atmospheric, buzzing little restaurant, which reemerged in the old space, replete with a downstairs bookshop and the well-worn name. Upstairs, former habitués will enjoy seeing the old bookcases around the walls (some of which are now stacked with wine). To get the real feel for the place try to get a table looking out over the Ha'penny Bridge and the slow-flowing river beneath. Traditional Irish food re-created with an adventurous twist best describes the terrific menu, which is greatly helped by organic credentials, as nearly everything on the menu is locally sourced. The corned beef and crispy cabbage with mustard sauce is a standout, as is the Irish cheese potato cake with oyster mushrooms, wilted spinach, truffle oil, and chive crème fraiche. An inventive wine list and a wonderful Irish farmhouse cheese selection are two more treats on offer. If your sweet tooth is acting up try the mind-blowing bread-and-butter pudding for dessert.