Celebrity chef Gary Rhodes is considered the father of Mod Brit cooking (being the first to give a nouvelle spin to such old faves as fish cakes and braised oxtail); he once hosted Hell's Kitchen, and he currently runs five restaurants in London and has a series of glossy cookbooks to his credit. Now, his adventurous tastes are trying to conquer Ireland, and all at a price few in Dublin's high end are matching. The smoked eel on toast with poached egg, crispy pancetta, and hollandaise is a brave but rewarding starter. Entrées include staples like fish-and-chips with crème fraîche tartar, as well as more exciting options like the Cashel blue-and-leek quiche with a warm poached egg, asparagus, and potato salad. The view is of trams passing, and the interior is a slight mishmash of styles dominated by some startlingly colorful modern paintings of, among other things, cows—but you'll be too focused on your plate to care.
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