Forget the stretched metaphors: if you're passionate about food, this place is a must. Thornton's cooking style is light, and his dishes are small masterpieces of structural engineering, piled almost dangerously high in towers of food. A highlight is the braised suckling pig served with trotter and loin in a poitin (Irish moonshine made from potatoes) sauce. Desserts range from banana ice cream to warm chocolate tartlet with raspberries. Sheridans of Dublin supplies the enormous selection of cheeses. The recently restyled dining room is simple and elegant—there's little to distract you from the exquisite food—and the new Canapé Bar is the perfect spot for a pre- or post-theater snack with a glass of champagne.
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