This wonderful, culture-vulture favorite gets its name from its location, downstairs in the vaulted, stone-wall basement of the Dublin Writers Museum; the natural stone-and-wood setting makes it cozily cavelike. The contemporary French eatery is currently the culinary king of the Northside, thanks to chef-proprietor Ross Lewis's way with such dishes as pigeon with a white-truffle, honey, and mustard glaze served with cassoulet of white beans and chorizo. Yeats himself would have loved the hake and langoustine with roast fennel and braised squid, all in a tomato-and-shellfish sauce, while Synge probably would have fancied the Dublin version of Proust's madeleine: rich bread-and-butter pudding, a favorite of working-class Irish mothers for generations, here turned into an outrageously filling work of art.
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