When is a wine bar not a wine bar? When it's one of the city's most talked-about restaurants. Opened as a basement wine bar by Olivier Meisonnave, the former sommelier at stellar Thornton's, Dax is quickly becoming the dining spot of choice for Dubliners who care about food. You can choose to drink or dine (tapas-style) at the bar, in the lush armchairs of the open-plan lounge, or in the more formal, restrained-modern dining room. The ballotine of ham hock with herbs is a standout starter, while the veal shin with sweetbreads and butternut squash gnocchi is one of the more daring main courses. The cold meat platter is a finger-lickin' little bar dish. With Olivier in charge the wine list is the envy of many a more expensive eatery, and with a couple dozen wines poured by the glass you can dare to try something really special.
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