It's a fine line to walk: to re-create tradition without coming across like a theme bar. Happily, Nancy Hands just about pulls it off. A galleylike room juxtaposes old wood, raw brick, and antiques with contemporary art to create a convivial, cozy dining area. The bar food is good, but the upstairs restaurant operates on a more serious level. Specialties include monkfish and prawn tagliatelle and lamb cutlets encrusted with herbs and served with beetroot and fondant potato. Numerous wines are served by the glass, and the selection of spirits is one of the most impressive in the country.
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