Chef-owner Eamonn O'Reilly cuts quite a dash, but it's his sophisticated, daring, contemporary cuisine that tends to seduce visitors to his little restaurant tucked away in a quiet lane only a few minutes from Stephen's Green. Try the incredible langoustine risotto to start. Dishes such as roast rump of veal with fricassee of girolles, pearl onion, and truffle, and pomme sarladaise (a southern French version of mashed potatoes) demonstrate a savvy use of native ingredients. Follow this with the passionfruit soufflé. As is usual with Dublin's luxe eateries, the fixed-price lunch and pretheater menus offer great value.