O'Brien's of Lesson Street is an old-school, pint-drinking Dublin pub and probably the last place you'd expect to find hosting a much talked-about new restaurant upstairs. Head up to the cozy second floor, however, to experience some Gallic magic. The decor is simple to a fault, you might even end up on a pub stool, but the menu is proof positive that the eponymous chef-owner Olivier Quenet once worked at the nonpareil Patrick Guilbaud. Black pudding with caramelized apple is one sumptuous starter; for main courses, check out the rabbit and pigeon pie with a snowflake light crust or the skate with brown butter and chard. The wine list is a parade of French stars in all price ranges.
8–9 Sussex Terrace, Upper Lesson St., Dublin, Co. Dublin, Dublin 4, Ireland