When it comes to cooking, pedigree counts. Owner Tom O'Connell is a brother to Ireland's favorite celebrity chef, Darina Allen, famed for her Slow Food Ballymaloe Cookery School in Cork. Tom, now based in the heart of Donnybrook village, follows the family blueprint by showcasing fresh Irish produce and focusing on locally produced meats and game that can be traced to their source (in many cases, an individual farm). Altogether you have the makings of a feast that is deliciously, quintessentially Irish. The flat-cap mushrooms á la creme with Kelly's of Newport black pudding is a popular starter, with the whole roast Skeaghanore duck a great main for two people. Desserts continue the homegrown theme, including a warm chocolate brownie with Gathabawn vanilla ice cream. The cheese board is a who's who of Irish farmhouse cheeses, including the Ferguson family's tangy Gubbeen.