Dubliners don't do waiting, but you'll see hungry crowds doing just that outside this no-reservations-accepted, exceptional eatery just off George's Street. L'Gueuleton lost a little of its intimacy when it expanded, but the crowds still come for authentic French food at a fair price. Start with 12 snails, fresh herbs, garlic, and pastis butter. For a main course, the slow-roasted pork belly with black pudding, parsnip puree, and Madeira jus manages to be hearty and adventurous at the same time. Desserts have a devilishly childish touch to them—passion-fruit cake with white chocolate sauce is a typical example. Although you can't phone in a reservation, you can go there early in the evening and put your name and phone number down for a table, and then pop next door to Hogan's bar while you're waiting.