Nightlife & the Arts in Dublin

Long before Stephen Dedalus's excursions into "nighttown" in James Joyce's Ulysses, Dublin was proud of its lively after-hours scene, particularly its thriving pubs. But the Celtic Tiger economy, the envy of all Europe, turned Dublin into one of the most happening destinations on the whole continent. Some of the old watering holes were replaced with huge, London-style "superbars," which, with the ubiquitous DJ in the corner, walk the fine line between pub and club. Most nights, the city's nightspots overflow with young cell phone-toting Dubliners and Europeans, who descend on the capital for weekend getaways. The city's 900-plus pubs are its main source of entertainment; many public houses in the city center have live music—from rock to jazz to traditional Irish.

Theater is an essential element of life in the city that was home to O'Casey, Synge, Yeats, and Beckett. Today Dublin has seven major theaters that reproduce the Irish "classics," and also present newer fare from the likes of Martin Macdonagh and Conon Macpherson. Opera, long overlooked, now has a home in the restored old Gaiety Theatre.

Check the following newspapers for informative listings: the Irish Times publishes a daily guide to what's happening in Dublin and the rest of the country, and has complete film and theater schedules. The Evening Herald lists theaters, cinemas, and pubs with live entertainment. The Big Issue is a weekly guide to film, theater, and musical events around the city. The Event Guide, a weekly free paper that lists music, cinema, theater, art shows, and dance clubs, is available in pubs and cafés around the city. In peak season, consult the free Bord Fáilte (Irish Tourist Board) leaflet "Events of the Week." The Temple Bar Web site (www.temple-bar.ie) provides information about events in the Temple Bar area.

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