Tucked away in a pedestrian alley, this is the kind of personable restaurant you dream of finding on vacation and turning into a culinary home away from home. It's cheerful, bustling, basic, and a little odd, with a baronial wooden chimneypiece, dating from 1901, dominating the small, double-height room, which also has tables on an overhead balcony. Photos of Hollywood stars, glass-block room dividers, and piquant lamps add to the pleasantly eccentricity. People not only
come here for the style, but also for value. Choose a daily special like twice-cooked crispy lamb, or Barbary duck breast with gratin potatoes, or for a few euros more, go for the extensive 20-euro menu. You can substitute a glass of wine for a dessert, which is good value, given Irish wine prices.
17/18 French Church St., Cork City, Co. Cork, Ireland