All that remains of this building's former identity as a pub is the long mahogany bar. Today it is a popular bistro-style restaurant serving robust, freshly prepared food from an open kitchen. Art Deco touches and a predominantly black-and-white theme set a Parisian mood, and light floods in from two walls of large windows on summer evenings. Most ingredients come from the renowned English Market, for a menu (on no-frills paper tablemats) that is mainly contemporary Irish,
majoring on comfort food—braised ox-cheek stew; game pie—and other winners include baked cod with buttered leeks, and housemade sausages with colcannon (potato mash with cabbage) and creamy mustard sauce. Vegetarian? Many options include moussaka of lentils with aubergine and Gruyère, with a feta, orange, and rocket salad.