Writer Edna O'Brien calls this low-beamed pub—one of Ireland's oldest—her favorite in the world. Its mostly wealthy visitors mingle happily with the few locals left in the village in the front barroom, the quieter back room, or the large garden. The owner-manager is always on the spot, supervising the operations and contributing to the craic (lively conversation). An all-day bar-food menu is available, and the upstairs restaurant nearly always buzzes (reservations advised). Try the trademark baked avocado stuffed with crabmeat, the massively generous platter of Castlehaven Bay seafood, or the succulent T-bone steak. This is a good place to sample local farmhouse cheeses, such as Durrus, Milleens, Gabriel, and Gubbeen.
Main St., Castletownshend, Co. Cork, Ireland