This tiny city-center restaurant, on the ground floor of a 250-year-old Georgian house, is always buzzing with a faithful local clientele—legal eagles from the nearby courthouse at lunch, theater- and moviegoers at dinner. The char-grilled fillet steak with chunky chips has achieved legendary status: some regulars can't bring themselves to order anything else. But there are other good options: fish from the nearby market is given robust, unfussy treatment, and vegetarian offerings include a twice-baked goat cheese soufflé with beetroot carpaccio. Flourless chocolate pudding with white chocolate cream is a memorable dessert. The interior is simple, with bright-red chairs and tan banquettes, but striking modern paintings supply a dose of character.