At this pair of large Victorian town houses near the university, owner-manager Johanna Lucey will be offering you tea and homemade cake before you have even crossed the threshold—the kind of old-fashioned hospitality that's fast disappearing in modern Ireland. Rooms are impeccably clean, with a homey assortment of furniture and fresh fruit and flowers. The annex (the second house) is more contemporary, with light wood, original Irish art, and leather sofas in the lounge. For longer stays, self-catering suites are available. Breakfast is a highlight: porridge (oatmeal) comes smothered in fresh cream, honey, and either Irish whiskey or Bailey's Cream liqueur, while eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and light-as-a-feather omelets offer a change from the ubiquitous "fry."