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County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. Adventurous, well-traveled chefs throughout County Cork make
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. A
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ball
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. Adventurous, well-traveled chefs throughout County Cork make the most of the first-rate local specialties: succulent beef and lamb, game in the winter, fresh seafood, and farmhouse cheeses. The best restaurants are not all in towns: even tiny villages might boast a gastropub.
Prosecco on tap sets the tone for fun at this wine bar and restaurant in the heart of Kinsale. There's a bar in the funky front parlor, along with some tables beside its street windows, supplemented by a more private back room. The eight-course tasting menu has a bouquet of carefully chosen indigenous produce: pigeon, rabbit, seaweed-infused potato, cured mackerel with ginger pickle, and sweet fruit with homemade sorbet---all offered with an imaginative take on traditional recipes.
Ahmet Dede, formerly of the exquisite Mews just down the street, bestows his culinary magic on his in season tasting menu that can include Wagyu beef, black sole, red mulberry, and brown butter—or even brown butter ice cream for that matter. This chef is living proof that with talent, a restaurant does not need the pomp and trappings of fine dining to offer a feast of flavor---because he's wowing critics both nationally and globally with his local ingredients served with Turkish flair in his stripped-back, casual eatery in the delightful seaside village of Baltimore.
Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.--Wed. (Phone ahead; owner Dede changes the schedule regularly.), Booking highly recommended as there is a long waiting list
A must stop for Kinsale's more carnivorous visitors, but while locally sourced meat (directly from the owner's farm) is center stage on the Finn family's menu, there's a good offering of fresh catch, too. Talented owner--chef John Finn runs the restaurant with his wife, Julie---but "Bertha" (an imported charcoal-burning oven) is second in command. The front room is quiet and luxurious, with white table linens, Villeroy & Boch platters, and extra-large wineglasses for the outstanding wine list. Another room is used for small groups and private parties.
Cross Patrick's Bridge to the River Lee's north side and turn right to reach this large, atmospheric brasserie in a converted 18th-century warehouse—a true Cork institution. Modern art, muted jazz, high ceilings, and well-spaced tables with colored wooden tops create a relaxed setting. The menu focus is contemporary---fish cakes, crispy duck confit, or steak. Service is friendly and efficient. Reservations are advisable Friday and Saturday evening.
Kinsale has other pub--restaurants, but none with such an idyllic waterside location. In summer, bar food is served on the big stone quay right beside the ocean. The characterful interior has a large open fireplace and a maritime theme, with a quirky selection of furniture. A concise, seasonal menu is on offer---try hot Oysterhaven oysters with spring cabbage.
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