County Clare, Galway, and the Aran Islands Restaurants

Because the West provinces have a brief high season—from mid-June to early September—and a quiet off-season, it doesn't have as broad a choice of small, owner-operated restaurants as do other parts of Ireland. Often the best place to eat is a local hotel—Gregan's Castle Hotel near Ballyvaughan, for example. But some places landmark the region, including Moran's Oyster Cottage in Kilcolgan near Galway City, where the fare is simple, served in traditional pub surroundings, but sea-leaping fresh. At the other extreme, are more dazzling experiments when you hit a grand blow-out place like the superb formal restaurant at Dromoland Castle. For truly adventurous contemporary Irish cooking, head to happening Galway and you'll find it at such showcases as Kirwan's Lane, the Malt House, and Nimmo's: the town center is so compact you can meander around and read the menus on display outside before making your choice.