A classic turn-of-the-20th-century gathering spot for Hungarian writers of the Nyugat (West) magazine, this coffeehouse has endured two wars and a communist closure. For 19th-century grandeur in 21st-century comfort, this popular café can't be beat. Coffees are served on silver trays with glasses of mineral water just as in the old days, but these days they are enjoyed in an air-conditioned, no-smoking room. The menu includes substantial dishes like hortobágyi palacsinta (meat pancakes with paprika sauce) and borjú paprikás (paprika veal stew) all day. Don't miss the excellent cakes and pastries, on view in a glass display case.