Behind a wrought-iron gate opening to a stoa, artists, scholars, couples, old friends, and businesspeople pack marble-topped tables. This convivial atmospheric place epitomizes the quality and spirit of Thessaloniki dining, down to the traditional spoon desserts. Once you sample the cuttlefish gemista (stuffed with cheese), grilled eggplant with garlic, or sautéed fillet of skate with white sauce, you'll understand why no one is in a hurry to leave. The entrance is on the east side of Aristotelous, between Irakliou and Tsimiski. Be warned: address numbers repeat at the square of the same name down the street, but this place is well worth the effort.
Aristotelous 8, in the stoa, Thessaloniki, 54623, Greece