Go to this beloved hangout—also called Tou Thanassi, after its owner, Thanassis—on a Saturday afternoon when an eclectic mix of Thessalonians fills the Modiano Market. Roaming Gypsy musicians serenade visitors with languid accordion lullabies or swooning violin ballads. The food here is equally diverting, from grilled octopus (sliced off specimens hanging nearby) and stuffed squid to midhia saganaki (mussels with cheese-and-tomato sauce). If you do plan to come on Saturday, make a reservation; it's the only day they are accepted.
Komninon 32, Modiano Market, Thessaloniki, Greece