Thessaloniki and Central Macedonia Feature

Hiking Zeus's Mountain

Spilios Agapitos. Mt. Olympus has some of the most beautiful nature trails in Europe. Hundreds of species of wildflowers and herbs bloom in spring, more than 85 of which are found only on this mountain. There are basically three routes to Zeus's mountaintop, all beginning in Litochoro. The most-traveled road is via Prionia; the others are by Diastavrosi (literally, "crossroads") and along the Enipeos. You can climb all the way on foot or take a car or negotiate a taxi ride to the end of the road at Prionia (there's a taverna) and trek the rest of the way (six hours or so) up to snow-clad Mytikas summit—Greece's highest peak at 9,570 feet. The climb to Prionia takes about four hours; the ride, on a bumpy gravel road with no guardrails between you and breathtakingly precipitous drops, takes little less than an hour, depending on your nerves. If you can manage to take your eyes off the road, the scenery is magnificent. The trail is snow free from about mid-May until late October. During your Mt. Olympus hike, you could take a lunch break or stay overnight at Spilios Agapitos. The refuge is run by the daughter of Kostas Zolotas, a venerable climbing guru. To bunk down for the night costs €12 per person (€10 with an international mountaineering card); there are blankets but no sheets. Bring your own flashlight, towel, and soap. Campers can pitch tents for €4.20 per person and can use the refuge's facilities (note that cooking is not permitted in the refuge). The restaurant is open 6 am-9 pm. It's 6 km (4 mi), about 2½-3 hours, from Prionia to Refuge A. From here it's 5 km (3 mi), about 2½-3 hours, to the Throne of Zeus and the summit. The trail is easy going to Skala summit (most of the way), but the last bit is scrambling and a bit hair-raising. Some people turn back. If you plan to hike up Mt. Olympus, be sure to take a map; the best are produced by Anavasi. If you would prefer a guided hike up Mt. Olympus, the folks that administer Refuge A can arrange a guide for you, and Trekking Hellas organizes treks for various-size groups. Refuge A, Dion, 60200. 23520/81800. www.mountolympus.gr. Mid-May-Oct.; overnight guests must arrive by 8 pm.

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