THE GREAT AMERICAN VACATION
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Methoni, a small fishing and farming village and quiet resort on a cape south of Pylos, has delighted visitors for some time: it was one of the seven towns Agamemnon offered Achilles to appease him after his beloved Briseis was carried off. According to Homer, Pedasos, as it was called, was "rich in vines," and tradition says that the town got its modern name because onoi (donkeys) carrying the
town's wine became methoun (intoxicated) from the aroma. The small fishing and farming village is still fairly intoxicating, with long beaches backed by olive groves and vineyards. Modern Methoni is two towns: a low-key settlement huddled on the beach beneath the fortress, and, just above, an animated old town on the crest of a rise—a laid-back, pleasant place to rest for a day or two.
West of the isthmus, the countryside opens up into a low-lying coastal plain around the head of the gulf of Corinth. Modern Corinth, near the...
The ruins of this remarkably fortified ancient city, about 20 km (12 miles) north of the modern town of the same name, are set amid a lush landscape...