Fodor's Expert Review O Mesaonas

A traditional Greek kitchen turns out delicious food served on outdoor tables in the small village square, adjacent to Megas Taxiarchis. You dine surrounded by medieval homes and magical lights at night, but the setting is lovely even for a daytime coffee and relaxed conversation. The best dishes include rabbit stifado (stew), made with shallots, tomatoes, and olive oil; and pastitsio, a meat pie with macaroni and béchamel sauce. All the recipes use local ingredients, with herbs and spices gathered from the vicinity. Soyma, served at meal's end, is the local equivalent of ouzo but made from figs—it can be blindingly potent, up to 70% alcohol.