Dimitris Anastopoulos's restaurant deftly proves you can eat well, inexpensively, and have a caldera view. Start with steamed mussels with ouzo and masticha liqueur or pastry flutes with Edam, sun-dried tomatoes, capers, and yogurt. For a main dish try chicken with artichokes and capers in lemon cream sauce, or Lithos pork tenderloin, with mushrooms and kefalotiri cheese in red-wine sauce. Desserts are a specialty, and cheesecake with wild blackberries tastes as good as it looks. The oil and wine are from Dimitris's farm in the Peloponnese, and the fish is local. From the high caldera street, walk down to the lower until you see the sign. This neighborhood jumps at night.