Always a great restaurant, Selene is now probably the best in the Cyclades, with a beautiful location, elegant setting and service, and a deep love of island cuisine with local ingredients. The terrace of the old aristocratic house has two sea-views—south and caldera sunset—and overlooks vineyards spreading to the Aegean. Excellent starters include squid with smoked fava and cuttlefish ink flakes, or smoked quail kouskousela on crispy potatoes. Among the creative entreés are Aegean codfish with garlic-scented Jerusalem artichoke velouté and the lamb with vine shoots and lemon-scented potato croquette foam. Desserts are not neglected: the chocolate mandolato and the baklava with local pistachios are both supreme. The Greek wine list is extensive. On Selene's lower level there is a café-restaurant where you can sample Selene's dishes or even have a sandwich. Next to it is Selene's agricultural museum in an old winery. Georgia Tsara, the maîtresse d', oversees all with grace, efficiency, and knowledge. In summer, owner George Hatziyianakis and his chefs give daylong cooking classes (be sure to check the website for details).