Though today Pyrgos has only 500 inhabitants, until the early 1800s it was the capital of the island. Medieval houses are stacked on top of one another and back-to-back for protection against pirates. Your reward for a climb up the picturesque streets ends at the ruined Venetian castle, where views extend across the vineyard-studded landscape to both coasts. In Pyrgos you are really in old Santorini—hardly anything has changed.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More