Peloponnese Restaurants

One of the simplest pleasures of Greece is a late dinner of traditional food with good Greek wine, preferably varelisio (from the barrel). From late April until as late as early November, you can expect to enjoy this experience outdoors. In the small towns here, any restaurant that pretends to offer more than this should be viewed with suspicion. The same goes for a big bill—no need to pay one, since you can usually enjoy a meal of such staples as lamb or moussaka for about EUR 10 a person, even in larger cities. Dress is casual and reservations unnecessary, although you might be asked to wait for a table, if you're dining with the majority at 9 PM or later. Expect to pay quite a bit for most fresh fish and seafood; a single portion is usually about EUR 15. Never settle for frozen fish, which may not even be from Greek waters. Look for red wines from the region around Nemea, between Corinth and Argos, and try Patras's sweet mavrodaphne, a heavy dessert wine. Another favorite in Patras is dendoura, a clove liqueur served after dinner as a digestive.

Most restaurants in the Northern Peloponnese are open year-round, as they cater to locals. Only in beach resorts, such as Tolo and Porto Heli, do restaurants close seasonally. In towns and cities, Greeks usually begin arriving for dinner long after tourists have finished their meals—at 10 or even later.

The Southern Peloponnese is not as popular a travel destination as the Northern Peloponnese and services and resources are proportionally limited. Be prepared to find a reduced selection of restaurants and hotels. Many dining spots in resort areas close from November through March. You won't find many fancy restaurants here, but don't go by looks. A hole-in-the-wall may serve the town's best meals, and what's available is what the butcher, fisherman, and grocer sold that day, despite the printed menu. Even the smallest villages come to life in the evenings, when the tavernas and kafeneia (coffeehouses) buzz with activity. As in the rest of Greece, it's customary to eat around 10 PM or so, though restaurants generally open for dinner around 7 or 7:30 to serve their non-Greek guests.

Less »