When to Go to the Cyclades

When to Go to the Cyclades

In July and August, the Cyclades are crowded and less personal and more expensive than they are at other times of the year. Walkers, nature lovers, and devotees of classical and Byzantine Greece would do better to come in spring and fall, ideally in late April-June or September-October, when temperatures are lower and the islands are less tourist-riddled. The only problem with off-season travel in the islands is less-frequent boat service; in fact, there is sometimes no service at all between November and mid-March, when stormy weather can make the seas too rough for sailing.

In late March the islands begin to burst with thousands of varieties of wildflowers, and sprightly crimson poppies dapple stern marble blocks; the sea begins to warm up for comfortable swimming in late May. Autumn's days are shorter, but the sea remains alluringly swimmable well into October. Autumn travel to the islands also brings rustic pleasures: grapes are pressed in September, and zesty olives are gathered and fields plowed in October.