At the "town hall," menu items like marinated salmon with fennel, and veal carpaccio reflect the chef's classic French training. But ask the waiter what else is in the kitchen, and he may reel off a list of hearty village favorites that includes a rich soffritto (veal cooked in a sauce of vinegar, parsley, and plenty of garlic), pastitsada, and pork stewed with celery, leeks, and wine. In June you can sit beneath a jacaranda tree's electric-blue flowers and watch
the comings and goings around the Town Hall in Dimarcheiou Square. Reservations are recommended on weekends.