In the winter you can warm yourself at your choice of several fireplaces in this old stone house that's been deemed a historic building by the state, and look out at the excellent views of the mountains. Tirokafteri, a piquant cheese spread, is the perfect accompaniment to the stone-ground country bread to start. Follow with a sampling of the large purplish Amphissa olives, fava (mashed yellow split peas, lemon, and raw onions), or the potent skordalia. Meat
dominates the mains: rooster with xylopites (tiny pasta squares) in tomato sauce, and stuffed lamb shank, for example.
Delfon, next to town hall and clock tower, Arachova, 32004, Greece