Chef-owner Chrisanthos Karamolengos's stellar fusion cuisine and his conversion of industrial space into stylish surroundings have made him hugely influential on the local culinary scene. Popular dishes include pheasant sausage with parsnips in Madeira; pork tenderloin with apricot and ginger; shrimp rolls with a sesame-and-tomato paste sauce; and a Greek version of sushi -- raw squid and trout roe on eggplant puree. The restaurant is divided by partitions (hence the name, "Left-Right") and a glass runway affords a peek below into Athens's best wine cellar. In summer, tables move outside and the menu switches to simpler taverna fare. Happily, prices drop accordingly.
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