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Fodor's Greek Islands
This mezedopoleio's menu changes more often than the faces of its regulars, a mix of locals, politicians, and intellectuals who have elevated this cozy neighborhood square into a city insider's alternative to Kolonaki. Sip the complimentary raki and crunch on bread sticks dipped in olive paste while deciding whether to order the day's special or a round of mezedes: roasted red peppers stuffed with goat cheese, mushrroms in lemon sauce, whole grilled squid, marinated anchovies, and a range of salads in season. Don't forget to taste Yiayia's (Grandma's) meatballs and froutalia, a special omelet recipe from the Cycladic island of Andros. In warm weather tables go out on the platia (square) under the shady trees; in winter, seating is in a split-level dining room with a casual island ambience.
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