This mezedopoleio's menu changes more often than the faces of its regulars, a mix of locals, politicians, and intellectuals who have elevated this cozy neighborhood square into a city insider's alternative to Kolonaki. Sip the complimentary raki and crunch on bread sticks dipped in olive paste while deciding whether to order the day's special or a round of meze: roast red peppers stuffed with goat cheese, bite-size fried pies with a filling of wild greens, whole grilled squid, marinated anchovies, and a range of salads in season. In warm weather tables go out on the platia (squares); in winter, seating is in a split-level dining room with a casual island ambience.
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