The owner of this popular fish taverna on the historical Kaisariani square works directly with fishermen, guaranteeing that the freshest catch comes to the table. Just point to your preference, and it will soon arrive in the way Greeks insist upon: grilled with exactitude, coated in the thinnest layer of olive oil to seal in juices, and accompanied by lots of lemon. The deep-fried calamari and buttered prawns are house specialties. Even those who scrunch up their nose
at fish soup will be converted by this version of the dense yet delicate kakkavia. H Trata is also one of the few remaining places you can get real homemade taramosalata. Avoid the lively square during Sunday lunch unless you want to squeeze in with the entire city. Parking is available.