Side Trip to Marathon

Side Trip to Marathon

Today Athenians enter the fabled plain of Marathon to enjoy a break from the capital, visiting the freshwater lake created by the dam, or sunning at the area's beaches. When the Athenian hoplite (foot soldier), assisted by the Plataians, entered the plain in 490 BC, it was to crush a numerically superior Persian force. Some 6,400 invaders were killed fleeing to their ships, while the Athenians lost 192 warriors. This, their proudest victory, became the stuff of Athenian legends; the hero Theseus was said to have appeared himself in aid of the Greeks, along with the god Pan. The Athenian commander Miltiades sent a messenger, Pheidippides, to Athens with glad tidings of the victory; it's said he ran the 42 km (26 mi) hardly taking a breath, shouted Nenikikame! ("We won!"), then dropped dead of fatigue (more probably of a heart attack)—the inspiration for the marathon race in today's Olympics. To the west of the Marathon plain are the quarries of Mt. Pendeli, the inexhaustible source for a special marble that weathers to a warm golden tint.

The 30-foot-high Marathon Tomb is built over the graves of the 192 Athenians who died in the 490 BC battle against Persian forces. At the base, the original gravestone depicts the Soldier of Marathon, a hoplite, which has been reproduced here (the original is in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens). This collective tomb, which contains the cremated remains of the national heroes, was built to honor them. The battle is plotted on illustrated panels, supplemented by a three-dimensional map of local landmarks.

About 1½ km (1 mi) north of the Marathon Tomb is the smaller burial mound of the Plataians killed in the same battle, as well as the Archaeological Museum. Five rooms contain objects from excavations in the area, ranging from Neolithic pottery from the cave of Pan to Hellenistic and Roman inscriptions and statues (labeled in English and Greek). Eight larger-than-life sculptures came from the gates of a nearby sanctuary of the Egyptian gods and goddesses. In the center of one of the rooms stands part of the Marathon victory trophy—an Ionic column that the Athenians erected in the valley of Marathon after defeating the Persians.

The archaeological site at Rhamnous,an isolated, romantic spot on a small promontory, overlooks the sea between continental Greece and the island of Euboia. From at least the Archaic period, Rhamnous was known for the worship of Nemesis, the great leveler, who brought down the proud and punished the arrogant. The site, excavated during many years, preserves traces of temples from the 6th and 5th centuries BC. The smaller temple from the 6th century BC was dedicated to Themis, goddess of Justice. The later temple housed the cult statue of Nemesis, envisioned as a woman, the only cult statue remains left from the high classical period. Many fragments have turned up, including the head, now in the British Museum. The acropolis stood on the headland, where ruins of a fortress (5th and 4th centuries BC) are visible. As you wander over this usually serene, and always evocative, site you discover at its edge little coves where you can enjoy a swim. For those going by public transportation, take a KTEL bus from Athens toward the Ayia Marina port, get off at the Ayia Marina and Rhamnous crossroads, and follow the signs on the flat road, about 3 km (2 mi). Or take a taxi from Marathon village.

Lake Marathon is a huge man-made reservoir formed by the Marathon Dam (built by an American company in 1925-31). It claims to be the only dam faced with marble. You may be astonished by the sight of all that landlocked water in Greece and want to contemplate it over a drink or snack at the café on the east side. At the downstream side is a marble replica of the Athenian Treasury of Delphi. This is a main source of water for Athens, supplemented with water from Parnitha and Boeotia.

Youngsters tired of trekking through museums may appreciate the distraction of the Attica Zoological Park. Spread across 32 acres, the zoo is home to 46 mammal species, 28 types of reptiles, and 304 birds, from a jaguar and wallaby to a brown bear and snowy owl. Take the Spata exit if you're coming from the airport or the Rafina exit if you're coming from the direction of Eleusis.

Beaches

The best beach is the long, sandy, pine-backed stretch called Schinias. It's crowded with Athenians on the weekend, and is frequently struck by strong winds in summer.

The coves at Rhamnous,about 2,000 feet from the approach, are cozy and remote. These are favorite swimming spots of nudists and free campers, although this is forbidden. Beware of spiny sea urchins when swimming off the rocks.

Paralia Varnava,less crowded than Schinias, is reached from Varnavas village.

Where to Eat

Argentina. While living in South America, owner Nikos Milonas learned how to carve beef, how high to fire up the grill, and exactly how to time a perfect medium-rare steak. The meat-loving population of Greece has been benefiting from his expertise ever since. Salad and home fries round out the menu. On a clear day you get a peek at the sea from the large veranda.

O Hondros. On the busy main harbor road of the resort community of Nea Makri, O Hondros ("the fat one") is a good choice if you're seeking more variety than the standard meat or seafood tavernas. Try the grilled green peppers filled with feta cheese, vegetable rolls, and grilled chicken with parsley.

Kali Kardia. For more than 35 years, Egre's taverna—as it's known locally—has been a family favorite. The menu is fairly simple, yet there's something about the juicy biftekia and potato-chip-shape fries that brings folks back. The move from a side street near the harbor to a residence with a pretty garden behind the town hall hasn't changed this homey taverna's prices, service, or food.

Tehlikidis. Introduced to Greece by repatriated Greeks from the Black Sea region, the peinirli is the local version of the calzone. The boat-shape pieces of thick, hand-tossed dough are topped with ham, cheese, bacon, egg, onions, sausage, or ground beef, then drizzled with butter and baked in a wood-burning oven. The classic peinirli, originally a workman's snack, is here topped with kasseri, a sharp local cheese.